Vietnam Struggles to Preserve Ancient Fish Sauce Traditions Amid Climate Change and Industrial Dominance

Artisanal fish sauce makers in Vietnam battle climate change and industrial competition as the global market for nuoc mam nears $29 billion.

By: AXL Media

Published: Apr 4, 2026, 11:16 AM EDT

Source: Information for this report was sourced from The Straits Times

The Saline Heritage of Phu Quoc

For over six generations, families in Phu Quoc have meticulously crafted nuoc mam using methods that have remained virtually unchanged since the mid 19th century. In factories filled with litsea wood barrels bound by rattan, producers like Ha Tan Tai oversee a fermentation process that transforms fresh anchovies and salt into a high protein liquid often compared to fine wine. Despite its status as a national intangible cultural heritage, this ancient craft is under severe pressure, with the number of active traditional producers on the island dropping from 100 to just 20 in a single decade.

Environmental and Economic Barriers to Purity

The primary catalyst for the industry's decline is a significant reduction in raw materials, specifically the schools of anchovies found in the Gulf of Thailand. Climate change and aggressive overfishing have driven up production costs, making it increasingly difficult for small scale artisans to compete with larger entities. Many historic brands have already effectively ceased to exist, forced to sell their unfinished products to major corporations that rebrand the authentic sauce for mass market consumption, often obscuring the original source from the consumer.

The Rise of Industrial Alternatives

According to the Vietnam Fish Sauce Association, approximately 70% of the 250 million litres produced annually in Vietnam is now classified as industrial fish sauce. While traditional nuoc mam relies solely on fish, salt, and a year of patience, industrial varieties often include additives such as sweeteners, colorings, and flavorings to appeal to a broader audience. These mass produced alternatives dominate the domestic market, even as artisanal makers like Nguyen Anh Duc strive to maintain the purity of first grade sauce, which can reach a protein content of 60%.