Beyond Fashion: How the 17th Century Hat Became a Potent Weapon of Political Defiance and Social Survival

New research by Professor Bernard Capp explores how 17th-century "hat-honour" served as a primary tool for political rebellion and social status in England.

By: AXL Media

Published: Apr 10, 2026, 8:52 AM EDT

Source: Information for this report was sourced from Cambridge University Press

The Political Transformation of Hat Honour in Revolutionary England

Recent studies into the social conventions of 17th-century England suggest that headwear functioned as much more than a sartorial choice, acting instead as a primary indicator of political allegiance. According to Bernard Capp, Emeritus Professor of History at the University of Warwick, the traditional expectation for men to doff their hats to social superiors was upended during the 1640s and 1650s. During this era of civil war, the refusal to "do off" one's hat became a widespread method for radicals and royals alike to signal their rejection of a court or individual’s authority.

Radical Resistance and the Refusal of Social Deference

Throughout the reign of Charles I, various radical groups utilized hat etiquette to challenge the existing class hierarchy. Figures such as the Leveller leader John Lilburne and the Digger leaders Gerrard Winstanley and William Everard famously maintained their headwear when brought before authorities, viewing their judges as mere "fellow creatures." This defiance was even observed in religious contexts, such as a 1630 case where an oatmeal maker wore his hat specifically to insult bishops he deemed "rags of the Beast," while removing it only for privy councillors.

Royalist Adaptations of Populist and Defiant Gestures

The strategic use of headwear was not limited to the lower classes or political radicals. King Charles I famously kept his hat on during his 1649 appearance before the High Court of Justice to demonstrate his total rejection of the court's legitimacy. Conversely, some royalists used the "hat-doffing" gesture theatrically while on the execution scaffold to invite moral support from the crowds. This indicates that the movement of a hat was a versatile tool used by the elite to either maintain distance from a perceived illegitimate authority or to seek populist favor.